Dropped off by helicopter on Edward Bailey glacier after hectic day flying around Renland.
Spent the day pimping base camp (BC) and went for a walk to edge of the moraine. Knee to thigh deep snow interspersed with boulders. Worried about glacier travel.
Team travelled up glacier to near base of wall and recovered gear that was dropped by helicopter. Waldo unwell and Pycroft and Pickles walked down to camp with him. Pycroft fell 3m into 15m crevasse but was uninjured. Leo and Joe stayed up and scoped route to base of wall, and established advanced base camp (ABC).
Everyone back at base camp. Everyone except Leo and Pycroft down with diarrhoea and vomiting.
Joe still ill but all the others went back up glacier and hiked loads to ABC.
Leo, Waldo and Pickles made tracks on the wall. Leo climbed first two pitches. Loose and scary but not too difficult. Pycroft stayed on glacier to shoot and fly drone but was there eight hours and very cold.
Pycroft down with fever after long stint on glacier. Stayed at ABC while Leo, Waldo and Pickles went back on the wall. Climbed another pitch that led to ledge system and first camp which was named Bedouin Camp due to the giant flake it sits on that looks like Saudi Arabia. Then all headed back to base camp.
24 hour day light affecting sleep cycles and we’re making most of cold nights to walk up glacier as it’s at its safest. Whole team headed out from BC with heavy packs on three day mission to establish camp proper on the wall. Slept at ABC.
Team ascended fixed ropes to approximately 200m. Team prepped for camp build and Joe led the ‘Pink Ribbon’ pitch that leads directly out of Bedouin Camp. Impressive five hour technical aid climbing from Joe.
After long sleep team descended to helicopter stash on glacier and hiked loads to base of wall. Team then ascended ropes and hauled all gear to Bedouin Camp, before setting up port-a-ledges and getting well earned rest.
MISSING MATERIAL – Unfortunately due to the delay in communications we are missing a small update here, we will plug this gap as and when we receive it.