28 11 2012
Early rise, breakfast on the terrace with a sea view, put the pack on your back, ride the scooter on winding roads to the cliff, enjoy the tufa fest and acrobatic climbing with people from all over the world, ride the scooter back to the studio enjoying the sun set over Telendos Island outside of Masouri village, drink a glass of wine and eat black olives while preparing a simple dinner, fall asleep early and content. Then it starts all over again. Normal climbing life style at Kalymnos!!
I stayed there for ten days and I immediately felt I have to go back. Only ten days! I could climb new routes every day here for years.
During the trip I focused on doing new routes, on-sighting multiple routes every day. To get into the style of the steep and physical routes of Kalymnos, I started out easy for the first two climbing days. On the third climbing day we went up to the huge cave called Grande Grotta – my main interest for this trip. I got a tip from a friend to try Priapos, a 7c that is 38m long with huge tufas, a few hard parts, but with multiple no-hands-rests. That suited me well since my training for this trip was mostly in the bouldering gym.
After almost an hour of climbing I finished the long route, on-sight, placing 20 quick draws, fighting like a mad woman for the last three metres due to the rope being stuck behind a tufa. Couldn’t pull that rope! I clinched to a small tufa with my calfs since my arms just couldn’t take it anymore. I was sure I would fall, just there, with the anchor only three metres above me… The whole cave could hear me screaming “I am screwed, so screwed!”
All climbers on the ground starting screaming and cheering me on and they were all involved in my fight. You could just feel the positive energy from all of them! I felt like I pulled a truck up the cliff with the rope drag, but managed in some way to finish off. Personal best! So happy
During the trip I had a great feeling on the cliff, climbing better than I have in a very long time. Look what some pure motivation can do!
My on-sight tick list:
Lucky Luka 7b
Zorba le Gros 7b
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